I state that I understand what chemistry Totti grammar, but a comment appeared on this blog made me feel compelled to investigate the following question:
creams emulsified with Tea Stearate, ie the chemical formato da acido stearico e trietanolammina, che in sostanza ha la funzione di tenere insieme al parte acquosa e la parte grassa della crema, sono da evitare?
Risalendo, via Google, alla fonte di questa notizia, ho visto che proviene da vari forum di cosmesi naturale. E questo già mi ha messo qualche sospetto, visto che non ho fiducia nel "naturale", categoria che comprende la cicuta, i sigari Avana, vizio e veleno di cui non riesco a liberarmi, ed esclude i farmaci. Inoltre, questi forum sono o anonimi (gestiti da una persona nota solo con uno pseudonimo, le cui qualifiche sono alquanto misteriose) o strettamente collegati ad aziende che vendono cosmetici naturali e, quindi, hanno tutto l'interesse a spingere i propri prodotti. Ho provato to seek guidance in one of these forums, but I got quite confused and contaddittorie answers.
In essence the allegations made in these creams are two
1) triethanolamine may have carcinogenic effects.
2) would be basic and therefore detrimental to the skin's pH, which is slightly acidic
I asked for lights to two dermatologists, who have told me that he had never heard of the problem and the doctor who, under the pseudonym WeWee, manages the blog Medbunker, dedicated to exposing the hoaxes about health. Despite usually dealing with more serious matters, such as cancer, has been kind enough to send this reply, which completely dismantles the claim 1).
writes WeWee (which in the email was signed with full name but asked me not to publish it because he was threatened with death by followers of those who scam people with cancer therapies, "alternative")
"The triethanolamine is a chemical that is permitted and approved by the FDA (do you know? Food and Drug Administration, the agency that monitors and approves drugs and substances in the U.S.) for common use (particularly washing fruits and vegetables and improve the workings of "peeling") and is allowed and considered safe for human consumption. Both components of TEA stearate are considered safe by the FDA (read here for complete information, in English: http://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/
The TEA stearate, has been deemed safe by the Committee of Experts CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Revue). The triethanolamine is used in cosmetics as a pH stabilizer and emulsifier
The triethanolamine is not a carcinogen. It can become only when mixed with substances that make her the nitrosamines that are carcinogenic. It is unclear whether they can cross the skin and also present in cosmetics at concentrations of triethanolamine the formation of nitrosamines is very complicated and not often. But if it was this done to calm the alarms, suffice it to say that nitrosamines are the exact same carcinogenic compounds that we all assume when we consume red meat or cold cuts and sausages. Additives are used to make the meat a bright red color and to prevent them from breaking down quickly (just read the ingredients of a common cold cut). In this case, however, for some reason, nobody battles and boycotts ...
In short, the response of WeWee, it seems to be a hoax (in the photo you see one intent to look good in a natural way). and in any case, if it is really a super healthy before giving up the cream with Tea Stearate, does well to stop eating red meat, cold cuts and cheeses, and those that contain nitrites , often labeled as "preservative E249/E250. "Nitrosamines are formed because the protein in the meat and cheese are formed by amino acids, which are amines.
Nitrite + amine = nitrosamine carcinogen.
regards point 1) I had a great response from dr. Fratter Andrea, researcher, technologist pharmaceutical and dermo-cosmetics. Lecturer at the second level master in aesthetic medicine, University of Pavia and Padua:
"emulsions as stearates,
so called, are made with stearic acid, saturated fat and physiological
also present in human sebum and amines or alkali needed to ionize
stearic acid
thus making him acquire the ability to emulsify fats in the water.
stearic acid in itself is a substance not only harmful to the skin, but rather to physiological and
fatting (lipids leads to the skin) while
TEA or other amines which are used to make creams to stearates
substances are almost
physiological or slightly alkaline. Given the amount that it applies
a modest amount of cream that spreads across the face, there is even the slightest possibility that these substances
profoundly alter the pH of the skin
that, among other things, may be buffered
physiological components from the same skin as lactic acid and other substances in a time
NMF Fast.
The hydro-lipid film does not suffer from creams
changes like these, but rather when
cleanses the skin with surfactants such as SLS very degreasers used daily.
On the action of TEA as a stearate soap,
the statement itself is correct, subject to a
consideration: TEA Stearate is a soap if you do
act as such. In other words if you apply this substance on the skin with water and then
do so that foam forms, then you
that the skin is altered in part because the foam
removes part of the barrier lipids, but if the Let the same substance on the skin
as emulsion, there is no phenomenon of degreasing, but rather to
intake of fat to the skin.
I would say that you do not run short
really no risk in a daily paper on the use of these substances
. Another thing to talk about instead of age to make use of stearates
cream: today we have far more raw materials
performance, pleasing and physiological. "
In conclusion, the creams emulsified with Tea Stearate, do absolutely wrong, but not even the best of cosmetic technology.
And then, because companies use them?
"We at Lush," says Helen Strange, press office Lush Italy "because of our policy antivivisezione , testiamo i nostri cosmetici sugli inglesi e quindi, quando dobbbiamo usare degli ingredienti sintetici, tendiamo a preferire quelli utilizzati da moltissimo tempo e che non hanno mai creato problemi".
Ciascuno, ovviamente, può decidere se preferisce gli ultimi ritrovati della ricerca cosmetica, gli ingredienti naturali o, come me, qualunque cosa, purché funzioni e abbia un buon profumo. Ma ha il diritto di farlo sulla base di informazioni vere, garantite da persone qualificate e non di affermazioni fatte da gente di cui non si sa nulla, tranne un nick.
